What a time of year to be in Bethlehem. As I write, every now and again my eye is drawn to catch a glimpse of one of the Hills that can be viewed through my bedroom window. I'm not sure why I was surprised when on the coach journey from Jerusalem, we meandered through hilly and steep streets to reach my destination. I guess I also shouldn't have been surprised by the myriad of Christmas decorations and lights which twinkled at me as I gazed out of the bus. Santa's and bells jollied me along the route and I decided there and then that I quite liked Bethlehem.
Yesterday I had the adventure of playing lone tourist. I'd already done the 'group following umbrella' thing in Jerusalem a few years back and had become frustrated at the early morning starts and the continual chivying along to the 'next' thing. It had been informative and it certainly ticked all the boxes in terms of going the places that counted in the life of Christ. Except, and this is a BIG exception, we didn't do Bethlehem.Which, for a tour entitled 'following in the footsteps of Christ', seemed to me to miss the critical event. His birth! (Although I suppose as a newborn baby he wasn't ACTUALLY walking when he was in Bethlehem so I guess that's OK!!)
I had been given a local map of the area from my guest house manager which he helpfully colour coded by highlighting three walks from my location which would lead down to 'manger square' and the central tourist area. Off I set and was pleased when I managed to arrive at the first junction and could clearly see where I needed to turn left. I soon realised however that the map was not an ACTUAL representation of ALL the roads in the area. Needless to say I got totally lost after the next turn and ended up retracing my steps 20 minutes later to try a different route. Having been here a day now, I can see it's actually clear if you simply follow where the main thrust of people are walking and had I been told that in the first place, instead of being given a map, I might have fared better!
Once in the square I spotted what looked to be a church building and headed towards it. I got distracted by a small door in the side wall, by which a security guard stood. I asked the guard if I could go through, he seemed friendly enough and nodded so I stooped down to squeeze through the door and step over the threshold. For those who know me, I am what people politely refer to as being height challenged, so you can appreciate that this was a very small doorway. The cavernous shell that opened up was dark and at floor level quite empty. My eyes were drawn to the hanging lanterns which cluttered down in a random fashion from the high wooden rafters. Only one end of the building seemed occupied and that by men in black gowns singing at an altar area. To each side of the altar there appeared to be an ante rooms. The one to the right seemed crowded so I headed left.
I noticed some wide, worn and aged steps leading down further under the altar area and as I peered down it occurred to me that this might be the spot where Jesus was reputedly born. As I stood at the top of the stairs the heat of the mass of bodies and stale air from beneath struck me. A few people started making their up towards me from beneath and it was then that another thought occurred to me. I was actually about to enter and go down the 'exit and go up' side! I bided my time until the stairs were free and quickly descended when the bodies lessened. I perched on a small marbled seating area opposite the grotto where the star was, which everyone seemed to be photographing, laying hands on and kissing.
Slightly stunned to find myself here and so easily, I tried to get in the zone of worshipfulness .Thankfully there was an American group down there whose leader whispered loudly that they should pray and sing a carol before ascending so I joined in the rendition of 'O Come all you Faithful' (much to the consternation of the Muslim group who were at that moment descending on the proper side.) If it wasn't for the fact I was still in shock from finding myself there in the first place, it would have been a moving moment.
So....I'm now midway through my second full day in Palestine. I have much to share about this. I will make this 'part one' of the story so that I can separately concentrate on sharing about the fact that I'm sensing the significance of Bethlehem as the earth venue for the cataclysmic outworking of the LOVE sent from heaven in reconciling humanity to God.
From Bethlehem with love. x
